Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico

Jack Morelock
Department of Marine Sciences University of Puerto Rico, Mayagüez, Puerto Rico

Ten sites of severe coastal erosion in Puerto Rico have been studied by using a series of aerial photographs from 1936, 1950-51, 1962-63, 1971, and 1977 (Fig. 1) . The flights were all made during winter months and the photographs were reproduced at scales of 1:10 000 1:15 000, and 1:20 000. Because of scale limitations inherent in the original aerial photographs, many reported measures of coastal erosion cannot be supported by the data. A practical limit of definition on aerial photographs for the human eye is 0.5 mm, which means that the smallest field distance that can be measured on a 1:20 000 photograph is 10 meters. Since each study is a comparison of one photograph with another, the value must be doubled to 20 meters as there are two sources of error. To improve the accuracy of interpretation, photographs for the sites in Puerto Rico were enlarged to a scale of 1:5000, which allows comparison between two photographs of a five meter change in shoreline. The photographs were taken from 6 to 14 years apart, so between each set we can measure an annual change of about 0.5 meter.

Tadical distortion should have a minimal effect since the coastal sites in this study are of low relief. Tilt error was checked and found to be minimal. The stage of tide at the time of photography can be a factor if the slope of the beach is low or the tidal range large. This was not a serious problem at the study sites, but to minimize the effect, where possible the loss of features above the water-line has been used as a measure of erosional loss.

The rate of erosion of a beach is not necessarily constant with time and there are accelerations, decelerations, and even reversals to a condition of accretion. Taking two points in time cannot provide information on changes in rate, and may in fact produce totally inaccurate results. Since five sets of photographs have been used, covering a forty year span of time, trends can be examined. The analyses show that rates of erosion are indeed variable, but trends of gain or loss seem to be consistent, and are comparable with other measurements where they are available.

El Tuque Park

This is a public beach west of Ponce. Because of the high rate of erosion and recreational value of the beach. this area presents a critical erosion problem. The shelf is relatively narrow south of the park, but the broad shelf to the east affords some protection from the dominant southeast wave approach. The area was studied by the Corps of Engineers4 and a report was issued describing remedial measures to be taken to restore the shoreline. From the photo study, areas A and B (Fig. 2) have been relatively stable since 1936. The change in shoreline has been the result of adding fill material as the expressway was built. In area C, there was erosion between 1936 and 1962 at about 1.0 meters per year. Since 1962 there was accretion until 1971, and a stable shoreline since that time at about the same position as the 1936 shoreline. The accretion was in large part accomplished by the addition of fill material at the time of construction of El Tuque Park.

Area D has been the site of the most rapid erosion. Between 1962 and 1971, there was a rapid loss of shoreline at the rate of 7.2 meters per year (Fig. 3) . The offshore bathymetry study by the Corps of Engineers (Fig. 4) shows a loss of sediment offshore that is consistent with the loss of the protective shoal at point D in the 1950 photograph.

From 1971 to 1977, the straightened shoreline at D had a reduced rate of erosion of 1.7 meters per year. The area is still being eroded as seen in field observations (Fig. 5) , but at a reduced rate. It is possible that the shoreline is adjusting to a situation of relative stability under the present wave regime. Waves approach from the southeast and are refracted to a northward direction. This sets up a north transport of the beach and nearshore sands. Even though the wave orthogonals indicate a general dispersal of energy, there is a concentration just south of where the point was located, which has led to reshaping of the coast.

Playa Cortada

The present pattern of erosion poses a problem for houses that were built at the waterfront east of the old pier. The western part of the study area is agricultural and has had a variable history of erosion and accretion which has included changes in the position of the river course and mouth (Fig. 6).

Areas C and D are both being eroded at the present time at rates of 1.0 and 0.5 meters per year, respectively. The only period of accretion was between 1950 and 1963. There have been individual attempts at fill with concrete and rock debris which have not been effective. The value of the land makes structural remedies questionable for this area. Recommendations were made to the Coastal Zone Management Program that similar areas of low cost development be made hazard warning areas in which expensive development could be discouraged.3

Aguada

The beach is a partial foreshore that terminates in an eroding cliff reached by high wave conditions. The period of accretion from 1937 to 1950 (Fig. 7) may have been caused by an influx of flood sediments. Between 1950 and 1977 there has been a loss of 25 meters of shoreline, and the rate of erosion has been increasing. The area has changed from a developed beach profile to the partial foreshore as erosion moved inland and cut into higher ground. Between 1937 and 1971, the vegetation line (presently a cliff) was at about the same position. Since 1971, this cliff has been eroding at about the same rate as the beach is retreating.

Visual inspection shows numbers of palm trees in the water and portions of the cliff that are about to collapse. The prospect is for continued erosion. There is some development of houses along the shore and sale of lots so that more can be expected. This area is an excellent example of the need to establish erosion hazard warning criteria and urbanization planning to avoid the need for expensive shoreline control measures.

Punta Salinas

Bahia de Boca Vieja, west of San Juan is an eroding lunate bay on which major modification has been carried out, The Bayamon River has been closed off from discharge into the bay and flood control channels and jetties have been built. Punta Salinas, at the northwest limit of the bay, is a tombolo (Fig. 8) . In contrast to the depositional origin, the present environment is undergoing rapid and severe erosion. The modified bay environment has a sediment movement pattern toward the center of the bay shoreline, then offshore.

Measurements from the 1950, 1971, and 1977 aerial photographs show a rate of erosion on the east of Punta Salinas of 2.1 meters per year from 1950 to 1971 and 1.65 meters per year to 1977 (Fig. 9) . Ground surveys taken between 1962 and 1973 give a rate of erosion of 1.4 meters per year, so that the determinations seem compatible. The west side of the tombolo has been eroding at an average rate of 1.8 meters per year from 1950 to 1977. The total loss between the two arrows of Figure 8 for the 27 year period has been about 100 meters - almost 4 meters per year. In 1950 there was a width of 175 meters and in 1977, there was only 75 meters remaining. The refraction of waves results in a complex pattern of sediment movement, but the transport is essentially to the south from each side of the tombolo. There is no replenishment source of sand for the beaches, so erosion should continue in the present wave regime

Isla Cabras

Prior to 1971, there appear to be no major changes in the shoreline of this island. Comparison of the 1950 and 1971 photographs shows essentially the same shoreline, but between 1971 and 1977, there is a drastic change at the southeast corner of the island (Fig. 10) . This part of the coast eroded at a rate of 3.35 meters per year between 1971 and 1977.

Arecibo

Briggs1 measured 35 meters of shoreline retreat in the southern part of the bay between the years 1940 and 1959, for an annual rate of 1.7 meters per year. He concluded that erosion in the bay began after, and as a result of, the construction and dredging activities accompanying development of the port area. The hydrodynamic environment was altered and conditions led to a new environment in which adjustment is still occurring. The aerial study of this region was done with photographs for 1950, 1962, 1971, and 1977 so that it is a continuing evaluation of the effects described by Briggs1.

Area C has changed in response to fill and dredge operations rather than a natural transport system (Fig. 11) . Areas A and B have continued to erode. In area A, the rate from 1950 to 1977 was 1.7 meters per year. Urbanization that existed in 1950 was abandoned by 1962. Between 1950 and 1962, the mouth of the river also shifted, introducing new hydrodynamic conditions. In area B, there was relative stability between 1950 and 1962, followed by erosion at the rate of 1.0 meters per year from 1962 to 1977.

The southern part of the bay is undeveloped, but west of the present river mouth the coast is highly developed and is an area of critical erosion problems. There was a loss of more than 15 meters of shoreline between 1950 and 1977, but the rate of erosion has been slowed by rip-rap and boulder wall construction to protect the town.

Punta Iglesia

The 1962 to 1971 aerial photographs show a moderate rate of erosion at the point and 1.7 meters per year of erosion north of the sand borrow pit (Fig. 12) . On the basis of field trips and reconnaissance flights in 1973-74, this area was categorized as being one of moderate erosion. Visits to the area in 1977 revealed a completely different pattern. There has been a rapid loss of shoreline, exposing several houses to wave action (Fig. 13) . An aerial photograph taken in 1978 of the borrow pit boundary shows that the shoreline has almost reached the subsealevel excavation (Figure 14).

This area is protected by offshore shoals of eolianite that serve to break wave action. Whether there has been a loss of eolianite or a change in wave direction, there does seem to be a new set of conditions that have led to increased erosion. The oblique photograph can only be used for an approximation, but the 1971 aerial photograph shows a ratio of 1:1 for borrow pit width and shoreline between the pit and the sea. The barrier was approximately 135 meters wide in 1971. The ratio is now 2:1, meaning that the barrier is only 75 to 80 meters wide.

Punta Uvero

This area showed marked erosion in 1973 (Fig. 12) and is still being eroded at a good rate (1983 overflight, Fig. 15) . There has been a relatively stable shoreline at area A west of the point, but the point and the area to the east (area B) has been a fluctuating shoreline with moderate erosion from 1936 to 1962 (Fig. 12) . During the period 1962 to 1971, there was accelerated erosion to an annual rate of 3.3 meters per year.

Boca de Cangrejos

The opening of the mouth of the lagoon for draining mangrove swamps and construction of a jetty has changed the shoreline dynamics and killed offshore reefs which helped restrain erosion, but erosion was occurring before this. The long line of beachrock extending northeast from the point probably marks a former shoreline position.2 Measurements from aerial photographs show an almost continuous history of erosion since 1936. (Fig. 16) . Between 1936 and 1951, the shoreline eroded at a rate of 0.85 meters per year. Between 1951 and 1962, the jetty construction resulted in a new shoreline configuration. There was an annual loss of 0.75 meters of shore for this period. The 1962 and 1971 shorelines occupy almost the same position. Between 1971 and 1977, the rate of erosion increased to 3.7 meters per year. This is the same period of time that is marked by accelerated erosion at Isla Cabras and Punta Iglesia. Riprap has been placed along the shore to protect the highway (Fig. 17) , but west of the riprap, erosion is continuing at a rapid rate.

Pozuela and las Mareas

Two sites on the south coast near Jobos Bay were also investigated. By aerial reconnaissance, it is immediately evident that the Pozuela area is undergoing erosion; there are numerous palm trees in the water and a low, wave cut cliff forms the shoreline (Fig. 18).

Wave and current dynamics were altered by addition of a jetty and harbor, but there was erosion even before construction. Between 1951 and 1962, area A was relatively stable, but area B and C were eroding at 1.25 and 2.25 meters per year (Fig. 19) . Between 1962 and 1971, area A eroded at 2.5 meters per year. The rate of erosion was less in area B, with a rate of 0.75 meters per year. Area C continued to erode at 2.25 meters per year.

Investigation of erosion by examination of the aerial photographs shows a relatively stable shoreline between 1971 and 1977. Only a shore area shows retreat of the shoreline. Field investigation supports this observation. There has been some undercutting of the cliff shoreline and some toppling of new trees, but the rate is reduced. The offshore area between the shoreline and the line of offshore shoals is now shallow and acts as a buffer to wave action. East of the jetty, there is marked erosion that continues to the site of the abandoned Las Mareas schoolhouse (Fig. 20) . The school had a playground including a baseball field on the seaward side when it was constructed. Between 1936 and 1977 there was a 30 meter loss of shoreline at an average annual rate of 0.75 meters (Fig. 19).

Comment

At the conclusion of this study in 1978, I recommended that the Coastal Zone Management Program establish a program of classifying the shoreline in terms of erosion hazard as a corollary to the flood warning classification of coastal areas. This move should have been accompanied by legislation to prevent or warn against construction in hazard areas. The basic idea is one of avoiding confrontation with erosion problems - if the real estate is not increased in value by urbanization, structural control is unnecessary. Several years later, I received notice of a meeting held by a group of east coast U. S. geologists who were discussing a similar concept. Figure 21 shows a recently completed urbanization on the north coast of Puerto Rico (1983 photograph).

References

1. Briggs, R.P., 1961, Recent shoreline changes and sedimentation at Puerto Arecibo and vicinity. Shore and Beach, vol. 29, no. 1, p. 27-36
2. Kaye, C. A., 1959, Shoreline features and Quaternary shoreline changes, P.R. U.S. Geological Survey Prof. Paper 317-B.
3. Morelock, J., 1978, Shoreline of Puerto Rico. Coastal Zone Management Program, Department of Natural Resources, Puerto Rico. 45 p.
4. U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1970, Detailed Project Report on El Tuque Beach, Ponce, Puerto Rico.